English Wines, Working with Mother Nature and a Little Magic…

^ Cabernet Franc vines growing under tunnels | © Harry Shutler, Berthon

Once across the River Lym from Berthon, we drive into the New Forest and then down a winding lane, past an impossibly charming Victorian church and suddenly we are there. The hive of agricultural activity with tunnels and farm buildings galore that is Newhouse Farm.

^ Strawberry tunnels | © Phill Williams

An old dairy is Mission Control for the B58 Winery, with a large boardroom table hewn of teak and workstations that plot the science that is such an important part of what happens here. Casually parked at one end is a very shiny Yamaha Fisi motorbike, and of course a drum kit…

^ Sandy Booth’s Yamaha Fisi motorbike | © Harry Shutler, Berthon

Sandy Booth bounds in to join the team that are creating a quiet revolution in English wine making in a very English part of the world. A family affair, Sandy works with his brothers-in-law, having bought the business from his business partner in 2020 after having initially joined in 2008. The bike is his and one of his brothers-in-law plays the drums.

^ Sandy Booth | © Monika Grabkowska

They are also the brains behind The New Forest Fruit Co. which grows around 5,000 tonnes of strawberries annually, as well as an astonishing 100 tonnes of asparagus.

^ Asparagus under tunnels

They are leaders in innovative and sustainable farming that uses tunnels and science – SAP analysis for the plants and more. In this way, crops which are grown sustainably can be optimised. Not only are the numbers good, the produce tastes amazing… Fascinating, but what has this got to do with wine?

^ Edward 3rd Baron Montagu plaque

B58 is so called because it all started on the Beaulieu estate adjacent to the Beaulieu Abbey and the first new vine was planted by Edward, 3rd Baron Montagu of Beaulieu in a new vineyard, on the traditional site of the old vineyard in 1958. The vines were not maintained or picked for many years, until they were taken over by the Newhouse Farm Team. Today, after a lot of work, they are in rude health and are part of a jigsaw of vines both in Beaulieu (outside) and at Newhouse Farm (under tunnels).

^ Sandy with his brothers-in-law Grzegorz (r.) and Irek (l.)

Intrigued with the idea of making wine, it did not take long before the team were applying the systems that they had developed for the propagation of fruit and asparagus, to wine. Their first wines appeared only this year, and immediately picked up medals from the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) and the Independent English Wine Awards (IEWA). B58 Gewürztraminer and Beaulieu Rosé both taking silver, with B58 Red and Beaulieu Red both taking bronze at the IWSC and the B58 Gewürztraminer and the B58 Red taking bronze at the IEWA’s!

^ The inaugural B58 Wine collection | © Monika Grabkowska

Of course, there is more to making wine than planting the vines, and for the B58 team, the learning process is well underway but far from complete. The vines at the farm are grown under tunnels which provide a micro-climate and extends the growing period. They are planted in raised beds using Coir – the outside of the coconut which is inert but which after time rots into natural compost. The raised beds are open at ground level, which allows the vines’ roots to grow into the loam and clay New Forest soil. The irrigation system delivers not just water, but nutrients and this is where the science comes in, with the plants analysed to ensure that they are getting the minerals and nutrients that they need.

^ Vines under tunnels

Bush roses are planted at the head of each line of vines as an indicator of the presence of aphids so that the team can react to prevent an infestation that would otherwise damage the vines, and later their important fruit. Thanks to the tunnels the winery is able to use less sprays.

^ Bush roses | © Harry Shutler, Berthon

On the way back to the winery to see interesting oak barrels beside stainless steel vats, we pass a large barn with New Forest Fruit Snacks emblazoned on it. This part of the farm pulse dries strawberries and raspberries to provide delicious innovative snacks made from 100% New Forest Fruit Company strawberries and raspberries that would otherwise go to waste and by the way, they taste delicious too…

The winery is filled with vats, barrels and stainless steel baskets full of bottled wine. This is where Sandy works with oenologist Guillaume Lagger to blend the wines, and to navigate a complicated recipe of different grapes, alcohol levels, sugar content and more to arrive at the holy grail of fine English Wine. Who knew that the vast oak barrels were toasted inside before being filled to produce more flavour? The barrel maker marks the degree of toasting – depending on each grape variety which informs the final flavours. The stainless steel vats contain grape juice alone which is blended between differing grape varieties and the wine is stored in oak, with its special flavour, to see what works best.

^ B58 wine barrels | © Harry Shutler, Berthon

The B58 winery is unusual as the winery produces still wine only. A selection of reds and white, and rosé of course, the numbers and variety of vines grown – is amazing. Using differing grape varieties adds to the possibilities. A trip to the winery today will see barrels and vats with fermenting grape juice from – Bacchus Orange, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, PiWi Red and Gewürztraminer.

^ B58 Beaulieu Red 2023 | © Monika Grabkowska

In the same way as they grow strawberries and asparagus, the B58 Team are using their skills as plantsmen, farmers, scientists and winemakers to raise the game of English wine making several notches.

Key to success is getting the Brix level right, the measurement of the sugar content in the grape juice to determine when to harvest their grapes. B58 wines aim for a level of 20/22 in the wine they press.

^ Guillaume Lagger & Sandy Booth | © Monika Grabkowska

Innovative farming is key, using revolutionary methods to plant vines earlier and to harvest a little in the first and second years rather than leaving it to the third or fourth. Covering the vines makes sure they grow well from the beginning and right up until the end of the harvest. It must be an incredible sight to see the deep red and translucent grapes ripening outside in the English countryside. It’s thanks to the environment the tunnels provide, that the fruit obtains a higher Brix level which is necessary to produce the quality and consistency of the wine each year. And all the while monitoring, caring for and weeding, pruning and picking by hand.

^ B58 Beaulieu Rosé 2023 | © Monika Grabkowska

As the tide of global warming laps at the traditional wine making areas in France, it is not inconceivable to think of the UK becoming a basket of wine making in Europe, as summers here become hotter and longer. However, for Sandy, the key thing is to understand the vines, the process and the science, and to work innovatively to increase yield, while maintaining flavour and consistency year on year. A farmer all his life, having wrestled a small strawberry farm into a significant player, his enthusiasm for the possibilities that the B58 winery hold are boundless. Another 2,400 vines of Cabernet Franc, Shiraz and Nebbiolo were being planted when we visited, ready for the 2026 growing season. Another initiative that with some science, thoughtful blending and skilled sustainable farming practices, will have Mother Nature smiling and more of us raising a glass filled with B58 wine in the future.

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